Imagine an island where ancient charm meets modern innovation, where donkeys share the roads with electric minibuses, and where sustainability isn’t just a buzzword—it’s a way of life. Welcome to Astypalea, a tiny Greek gem with a population of just 1,400, where I recently spent a week exploring its unique blend of tradition and forward-thinking initiatives. But here’s where it gets controversial: while other Greek islands struggle with overtourism, Astypalea is taking a bold stand to stay unspoiled. Could this be the future of travel, or is it a utopian dream? Let’s dive in.
Nestled in the Aegean Sea, Astypalea is shaped like a butterfly, its wings stretching out to embrace crystal-clear waters and pristine beaches. Unlike its more developed neighbors, Rhodes and Kos, this island feels like a well-kept secret. Its capital, Chora, is a picturesque maze of whitewashed buildings, winding alleys, and a 15th-century Venetian castle perched high above the town. The castle, built on the ruins of Roman and Byzantine structures, offers breathtaking views of the sea—a perfect starting point for any visit. From there, a stroll downhill leads to eight traditional red-roofed windmills, dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries, and the island’s Archaeological Museum, a treasure trove of artifacts spanning from prehistory to the Middle Ages.
And this is the part most people miss: Astypalea isn’t just about history and beaches; it’s a living experiment in sustainability. Thanks to a partnership between the Greek government and Volkswagen, the island is transforming into a ‘smart and sustainable’ destination. Electric minibuses, part of the AstyBus scheme, zip through the narrow streets, replacing traditional combustion engines. It’s a rare sight in the Greek islands, and it’s just the beginning. A hybrid power station is under construction, aiming to cover over 50% of the island’s energy needs during the summer, with wind energy projects on the horizon. Mayor Nikolaos Komineas even dreams of eliminating single-use plastic bottles by making tap water safe and encouraging reusable alternatives. Bold moves, right?
My exploration began with a ride on the AstyBus, a convenient way to navigate Chora’s steep, winding streets under the scorching June sun. My first stop was Maltezana, a charming village just a 20-minute bus ride away. Here, I discovered Agios Dimitrios, a small church with a striking blue-and-white exterior and an intricately decorated interior, its walls and ceiling adorned with biblical scenes in blue and gold. Nearby, a narrow beach beckoned with its shallow, clear waters—the perfect spot to relax after a morning of sightseeing.
Over the next few days, I hopped on the AstyBus to explore more of the island’s beaches. Schinonta, a quiet bay near Maltezana, offered tranquility, while Livadi, just over the hill from Chora, boasted tree-lined shores and beachfront restaurants. But I craved something more remote, so I rented an electric vehicle (EV)—a VW ID.3—through the AstyGO app. Here’s where it gets tricky: while the app promised convenience, it required a reboot to start the car, and the dashboard instructions were in Greek. Still, the drive to Vatses Beach was an adventure. The unsealed road turned into a narrow track with a steep drop, but the reward was worth it: a wide, sandy bay framed by rocky cliffs, a café serving Greek salads and cocktails, and sun loungers under shady trees. Paradise, right? Well, almost. After hours at the beach, I was automatically logged out of the AstyGO app, and without 5G signal, I couldn’t even open the car door. Thankfully, the café’s Wi-Fi saved the day, and I returned to Chora—with a goat trailing behind me for part of the journey.
Back in Chora, I indulged in the island’s culinary delights. Navagos, with its modern Greek tapas-style menu, served locally made sausages and slow-cooked chickpeas with lemon sauce—a feast for the senses. For dessert, Glykia, a cozy café up the hill, became my go-to spot. Even in June, Astypalea felt like a hidden treasure, described by one visitor as ‘Santorini 20 years ago.’
But here’s the real question: Can Astypalea maintain its balance between tourism and sustainability? While Santorini, just 100km away, grapples with over 3 million visitors annually, Astypalea welcomes a modest 32,000 to 36,000 tourists per year. Last year, the mayor rejected a proposal to build 200 villas, stating, ‘We don’t want a crowded island. We want to keep nature as it is.’ Is this the right approach, or is the island missing out on economic growth? What do you think—should destinations prioritize preservation over profit? Let’s discuss in the comments!
